Betjeman trail – part two

A couple of weeks ago we completed part two of our ‘self made’ John Betjeman tour, taking in locations of his schooling, summer holidays, university, marital homes and his final years. We stayed at the Race Horse Inn, North Hill and the Parklands hotel, Osbourne St. George, both excellent  establishments – the latter being well situated for anyone doing the Ridgeway long distance footpath.

To begin with, the Dragon School in north Oxford, where John was a boarder.

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He then moved on to Marlborough College, where he enjoyed less happy times

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The chapel at Marlborough which was ‘centre of school life’ and provided JB with some respite from the bullying regime

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From Marlborough we travel to Trebetherick on the north Cornish coast, the place of childhood holidays and his later years. Treen Cottage, in the same vicinity as his childhood holiday cottage, overlooks the golf course and St Enodocs church – John’s final resting place

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Views of Pentire Point from Greenaway – the strip of coast connecting Trebetherick with Polzeath and location of many of JB’s happy holiday exploits

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Greenaway from Pentire, looking towards Rock and Padstow, with Stepper Point off to the right

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The modern pedestrian ferry which runs between Rock and Padstow

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In nearby Wadebridge, in the former railway station buildings, is the John Betjeman Centre, with a room dedicated to his life and filled with artefacts and memorabilia from his house in Trebetherick. It’s a ‘must see’ on a tour of this nature though the actual place has more of a feel of a day care centre than a focal point for Betjeman fans!

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A collection of artefacts from Treen, his cottage in Trebetherick, at the time of his death in 1984

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John spent much of his later school holidays on his bike, armed with a one inch map, exploring the churches of this part of North Cornwall… ‘One of them that year so worked on me that, if my life was changed, I owe it to St Ervan and his priest’

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Extract from ‘Summoned by Bells’, in the ‘hidden’ church of St Ervan

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The former Rectory of St Ervan

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From Marlborough John went to Magdalen College, Oxford, to read English

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JB failed his degree and took up various appointments as journalist/correspondent and during the war, working for The Ministry of Information, as an attache in Dublin. He married Penelope, daughter of Field Marshall Lord Chetwode, in 1933. They lived at Garrard’s Farm in Uffington, Berkshire

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Tom Brown’s School museum has an interesting display about the Betjemans lives during their time at Uffington, as well as an extensive archive of private correspondence and papers. Candida, his daughter, still lives in the village.

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At the end of the war the owner of Garrard’s farmhouse required it back and the Betjemans moved to the nearby  Old Rectory, Farnborough – bought by John’s father-in-law.

As an interesting footnote, Country Life ran a competition in 2008 to find the finest English parsonage – Farnborough won, and our current house was selected as regional runner-up!

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After his time in London, living in Cloth Fair and Chelsea, with Lady Elizabeth Cavendish- his ‘beloved second wife’, JB returned to Cornwall and saw out his days at Treen.

He died on 19th May, 1984, and was buried in the church of St Enodoc.

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John Betjeman, 1906 – 1984. A life filled with women, poetry, architecture, trains, and doubt……

Breckland Bonanza (I must think of a more original title!)

Today, on the way back from the cottage, we did a round-up of a number of rare/scarce Breckland birds. Here’s the results:

First, a singing Wood Warbler at NWT Wretham Heath reserve

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A male Redstart, at an undisclosed location

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Distant Stone-Curlew at NWT Weeting Heath

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A superb male Red-footed Falcon over the reed bed at RSPB Lakenheath reserve

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And finally, a rather distant Black-winged Stilt, on Adventurer’s Fen, NT Wicken Fen

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Nice to catch up with so many smart birds in one day!

Time out from the allotment

Having recently acquired an allotment and with the weather definitely spring-like, we (brother Bryan and I) spent most of last week constructing a poly tunnel. However, with the sun continuing to shine and only a moderate north westerly wind, on Friday we decided to catch up on a few historic Norfolk churches. With only two old mountain bikes available to us, albeit that one is a classic Muddy Fox Courier Comp which Bry had the privilege to ride and given that I hadn’t been on a bike since Christmas (shame on me!) we opted for a rather modest 45k/ 10 church itinerary, details below:

The Route

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The Churches

All Saints Weybourne, St Mary Kelling, St Nicholas Salthouse, St Margaret Cley, St Nicholas Blakeney, St Mary Wiverton, St Martin Glandford, St Andrew Leatheringsett, St Andrew Holt, All Saints High Kelling

The Pictures

First church of the day, All Saints Weybourne, with the remains of the Augustinian priory in the foreground

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St Nicholas Salthouse

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Detail of the roof and clerestory

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Part of the painted screen

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View of St Margaret, Cley, from the Wiverton side of the former Glaven estuary

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Interior of St Margaret’s, showing the cathedral-like proportions

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Detail of the St Francis stained glass window, depicting a number of interesting bird species, including Bluethroat

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A more recent addition, the Richard Millington depiction of the 2008 White-crowned Sparrow, in the west window

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View over Cley and the distant bird reserve, from the tower of St Nicholas Blakeney. The tower is open each Friday, 2.00 – 4.00. Highly recommended!

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St Mary, Wiverton, with St Margaret, Cley in the distance

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Detail of a medieval window discovered during renovations

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The interior of St Martin, Glandford

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The only round tower of the trip – St Andrew, Letheringsett

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The last and least ‘grand’ of the days churches, All Saints, High Kelling

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Post Script

The aforementioned poly tunnel – impressive eh!!

 

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Melton Mowbray…famous for pork pies and RBG!

This afternoon we took a brief excursion to the pork pie capital of England – Melton Mowbray, though not on this occasion for ‘growlers’ but for the ‘resident’ Ring-billed Gull, a rare larid  from North America.  Similar to our own Common Gull but paler on the back and, on adult birds, a prominent black band on the thicker yellow bill.  This particular bird was a ‘first summer’ bird, with heavy flecking on the head, nape and ‘shoulders’.

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A nice bird in a highly unlikely location and a welcome addition to the year list.

Billy unblocked

Finally, finally, this afternoon in a small patch of scrub just inland from the coast at Horsey Gap, Norfolk, I ‘unblocked’ a ‘Billy Bluetail’…or Red-flanked Bluetail, to give it it’s proper title – a bird which has led me a merry dance for many a long year. A three star rarity, that breeds in the Siberian taiga, occasionally as far west as Finland and winters in South East Asia. I knew there must be a reason for these constant howling easterlies over the past few weeks and now I know – it was to bring me this tiny, gorgeous, shy ‘slip of a girl’… for a female it probably was! If one was really greedy, which I am not, then a spring adult male in all his blue and orange ‘regalia’ would truly be a sight to behold but I am perfectly content with a female (or adolescent of the species) – perhaps more subtle, less ‘glitzy’. But don’t take my word for it judge for yourselves!

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And to cap it all, a couple of miles down the coast at Winterton, roosting in a holly tree – a couple of Long-eared Owls.

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A ‘Lifer’ and a Norfolk ‘tick’ ( I know, I ought to be ashamed of myself for letting this one go under the radar for so long!) all in one glorious, sunny spring afternoon….ah that’s the magic of birding!

Glorious Glaucous

I was pleased with this sequence of Glaucous Gull pictures so I thought I’d share them. Taken at Sea Palling on Easter Sunday, one of four present amongst the thousands of other gulls. This is a 1st winter bird, showing considerable fading to it’s ‘coffee’ coloured juvenile plumage. Glaucous Gulls are rare winter visitors to England from Iceland & Scandinavia. They are slightly bigger than our familiar Herring Gull, as can be seen from the first couple of photos and always have white primary wing feathers. They can be told from the very similar and equally rare Iceland Gull by size, structure and, in young birds, the reduced area of black on the bill-tip. ‘Glaucs’ are typically scruffy individual, found picking through urban waste on refuse tips or seen roosting on inland reservoirs, so it was nice to see them in their maritime environment in good winter/spring sunshine. Four birds at a single location is pretty exceptional.

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And finally a flight shot of a second ‘1st winter’ individual showing rather more of it’s coffee coloured plumage

 

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Hopefully the next birds to feature in this blog will be spring migrants!

Metro-land and beyond – on the Betjeman trail

On Saturday we did the first stage of our John Betjeman trail – tracing the life of the much loved 20th century poet from London, through Oxford and Marlborough to Cornwall, using his autobiographical ‘Summoned by Bells’ as our guide.

As has been the way of things recently, it was raining when we set off for London and it continued showery for most of the day. We started our sojourn, as you would expect, at the ‘feet of the master’ himself – visiting the modest but lively bronze statue of him on the upper level of St Pancras station.

Next stop was to see his London residence, where he lived and worked as a writer, journalist and poet – a small apartment in Cloth Fair, above what is now a rather trendy Vegetarian restaurant. Then on to his fathers ‘Works’ a collection of workshops straddling Pentonville Road and White Lion Street, just around the corner from the Angel.

After an early lunch and a chance to dry off at the popular Pizza East, Kentish Town “where London began‘ in Betjeman’s youth, we did the sites in Highgate. First stop was 52, Parliament Hill Mansions, where he spent his early years. Then on up Highgate West Hill, past St Anne’s church where he was baptised ( and where, coincidentally, we where summoned by bells!) and on to No. 31, overlooking the Holly Lodge estate, built on the site of the former Burdett-Coutts estate and where John spent his early youth, before being sent to the Dragon school in Oxford. Final stop was Highgate cemetery where we made fruitless enquiries as to the location of the family grave. (If anyone has a location/plot number I’d be very grateful if you could post it on this blog!)

JB on St Pancras station

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The ‘blue plaque’ on the wall of the apartment in Cloth Fair

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Betjeman’s London residence

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The ‘Works’ on Pentonville Road, where his father hoped John would follow in his footsteps

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Entrance to the block of flats on Lissenden Gardens where John Betjeman spent his early infancy

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Details of the tiles in the entrance way of 52, Parliament Hill Mansions

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No 31, the family home on West Hill, Highgate

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Part of the Holly Lodge estate, built on the site of the former Burdett-Coutts estate – home of Angela Burdett, the   ‘richest heiress in England’ and the subject of Dickens’ dedication in Martin Chuzzlewit, viewable by the young Betjeman, from his ‘eyrie’ in No 31, West Hill

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Entrance to the older Holly Village, off Swains Lane

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Difficult to believe that this rural idyl is only a few miles from the City

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So concluded the first leg of our John Betjeman trail. Off now to read again his autobiography and plan the next and longer trip to Oxford, Marlborough and beyond…

Broadlands bonanza

Yesterday we decided to have a days birding and catch up on some of the long-staying scarcer birds that have been hanging around the Broads since the New Year.

We started at Earlham, just west of Norwich, to look for the Great Egret that’s been loitering in the Yare valley. Having parked the car and strolled back to the Tollgate Way bridge, the bird was obligingly out in the open, if a little distant –  feeding in the pastures to the west. First ‘target’ species under the belt!

Next, off to another stretch of the Yare, further down stream, to look for Bean Geese. We scanned from the platform at Buckenham station but this time no joy. They’ve not been reported from this spot for a while, so we didn’t feel too bad and the Short-eared Owl was some compensation anyway.

Our next stop was the Waveney forest to look for the Rough-legged Buzzards that have been wintering there. Having found the ‘mound’ and a couple of birders we were invited to look at a perched Marsh Harrier. We did and I said I was pretty sure it was a Rough-legged Buzzard! Twenty minutes later, when a farm vehicle disturbed it from it’s perch and it flew, the bright white upper tail patch, confirmed it’s ID. We also had a nice Peregrine there.

On to Gt. Yarmouth to look for Mediterranean Gull – which we found, 18 in all states of age/plumage, along the beach.

Cockshoot Broad was our next location – a lovely NWT reserve, good for winter wildfowl. We’d spent twenty minutes in the hide examining the small duck flock in some detail, coming to the conclusion that our target bird was not on show, when something disturbed the birds at the far end of the broad. Up popped the female Ferruginous Duck, which then quickly swam back to the vegetation and was lost from view! Another ‘hard to get’ species UTB!

Lunch was the ‘chippy’ at Wroxham before pressing on to Barton Broad and the last of our ‘pinned down’ species. Once at the observation platform it was apparent that all the ducks, apart from a small flock of Goldeneye feeding in open water, were at the far end of the broad. It took time and considerable eye-watering ‘scope work to locate one of the reported Scaup, in amongst the tightly packed Tufted flock. Still the nearby Water Rail provided some entertaining distraction.

It was then off to our final destination, to watch the evening roost at Stubb’s Mill. We got to the viewing platform by half past four, and the action was already starting – four handsome Common Crane flew through whilst a Merlin perched in a distant hawthorn and several Marsh Harriers where patrolling the fields before bedding down for the night. A male Stonechat was flitting around in the nearby bushes as  a splendid ‘ghost’ male Hen Harrier came to roost. “Egret…” was called and, as I studied the distant bird flying across the winter landscape, it became obvious that it was another Great White…our second for the day and a bit of a surprise! Forty plus more Marsh Harriers, a report of two distant Crane, and it was time to go. By which time it was nearly dark and we were utterly frozen but very pleased with our days work. Half way back to the car park, against the pink and mauve of the dusk sky, two honking Crane flew overhead – just perfect!

The first of our ‘target’ species – Great (White) Egret

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If you look carefully you can just see a Rough-legged Buzzard sitting on the gate, next to the right-hand post.

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One of the eighteen Med Gulls, on the beach at Gt Yarmouth

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A quick snap of a Grey Heron

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The elusive female Ferruginous Duck – behind the flock of Tufted

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Jane, Bob & Sue on the viewing platform at Stubb’s Mill

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If you look very carefully….two distant Crane, flying to roost!

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The end of a really good Broadlands birding bonanza.

Felbrigg freeze-up

 

 

 

 

 

Birding at Felbrigg, during this weekend’s freeze-up, has been pretty good. Surprisingly perhaps the Bittern, first found at New Year, has hung around – I saw it again this morning fly into the reed bed from the surrounding marshy woodland. There has been a superb male Goosander on the near frozen lake, both Barn and Little Owl, Marsh Tit, up to five Water Rail, Whooper Swan, Green Sandpiper, Snipe and several Woodcock, as well as the commoner stuff.

Felbrigg House, in the snow

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The ‘resident’ Whooper Swan

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and now in ‘close-up’

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One of up to five Water Rail feeding around the unfrozen margins of the lake

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On our way home we stopped off at Deeping High Bank to look for swans but the fog was too thick. This Short-eared Owl was a bonus though

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Waxwing Lyrical

Yesterday, before departing for Norfolk, we stopped by in Werrington to see if the large flock of Waxwing, reported on Wednesday, were still about. You may think that having found a flock of these ‘winter jewels’ earlier in the week that we would be content, but oh no – such is the lure of these beautiful and engaging birds! Anyway, we did find about a dozen birds, feeding briefly on apples in someones front garden and I managed to get a couple of record shots.

We then set off for lunch and a walk at Titchwell. The drive over was fabulous, the roads were quiet, crystal clear air and scenery stunning – with every bush and tree encrusted with thick hoar frost. In roadside bushes, just outside Kings Lynn, I spotted two more Waxwing and, managing to avoid the passing lorries, take some photos.

Lunch at Titchwell was it’s usual high standard (for birders that is!) – soup & rolls and pasty & beans, then an hour or so of excellent mid-winter birding. The lagoons were frozen, so we headed straight for the beach, picking up Water Rail, Brambling and Lapland Bunting on the way. The sea was rather quiet with Red-breasted Merganser and Red-throated Diver being the main interest. Further along the coast at Stiffkey, on the salt marsh, we added Merlin. All in all, a pretty good day.

Waxwings at Werrington, feeding on apples

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and another, in road-side bushes near King’s Lynn

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Brambling, at the Titchwell feeding station

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Arty Mute Swan picture

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A very obliging Water Rail

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